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1. To prepare the surface first. Here the worker uses a sandpaper of 220-grit to scuff the surface of the primered metal so the filler will adhere properly. We're filling a trunk handle and lock hole he welded up. The welding-in of metal distorted the area enough that a high-build filler-primer wouldn't do the job in two or three coats.
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2. After the area had been scuffed, blew off all the sanding dust so the surface would be nice and clean for the filler to adhere to.
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3. Before applying any filler, use a piece of spring steel to get an idea how much you'd need for the job. Here you can see the gap between the body panel and the piece of spring steel. This gap is the amount of filler that'll be required to bring the area even with the rest of the panel's surface. It's better to not use more filler than necessary, as you'll just be giving yourself more work later on.
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4. Stir filler in can thoroughly, then take required amount of filler from the can and replace lid. Knead tube of hardener before use. Place desired amount of filler on a clean, non-fibrous mixing board. Add 2 to 3 % (by weight) cream hardener to the filler taken from the can.
Special remarks : An excess use of hardener can(may) result in a stained overcoat.
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5. Mix thoroughly until uniform color is achieved. Approximate setting time is 4-5 minutes at 25℃. Setting time increases at lower temperatures or higher humidities and shortens at higher temperatures or lower humidities
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6. Using a plastic squeegee, spread a thin layer of mixed material over surface using firm pressure to assure fewer pinholes and proper adhesion. Apply additional layers, building area slightly higher than the surface to allow for sanding.
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7. After applying the filler, use the spring steel again to even out the surface and remove excess.
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8. Usually just lets the panel sit outside in the sun for the filler to cure. While one panel is hardening, you'll apply filler to another, and when he's finished with that one, the other will be ready for sanding. But In cold temps to take the heat lamp for helping the curing process. Usually this takes about 15-25 mins.
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9. You have two basic types of sanding boards to use for this part of the process. One the sandpaper sticks to, the other is clamped on. Is one better than the other? That all depends on preference.
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10. Worker used his hand to see if the filler was cured enough. Filler that's ready to be sanded will have a nonstick feel to it. As worker felt a bit of tackiness in the filler, he used a rag with some lacquer thinner on it to wipe the sticky residue off and help dry it down.
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11.After the filler was ready, Worker lightly sanded over the area to get an idea if he'd used enough.
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12. See the darker-colored areas? That's where low spots in the surface still exist, requiring more filler. So it's back to the mixing board for a bit more. Even though you want to get the amount right the first time, it's better to have to apply a little more filler than sand off a large amount to get a surface even.
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13. With the proper amount of filler applied and dry, Worker lightly sanded the area again to check for other low spots.
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14. Once the area was free of low spots and ready for sanding, worker applied a guidecoat to the filler so he could see the high and low spots while sanding and measuring his progress. This is important, because without a guidecoat, you increase the chances of sanding unnecessarily in an area and creating more work for yourself.
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15. Sand and check, sand and check. When sanding filler, you always want to check and see how even the surface is after you sand an area. This gives you an idea where you need to pay more attention and which areas that are just right.
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16. After a good amount of sanding, the center area of the panel still showed a low spot, so worker mixed up some more filler to even the area with the rest of the deck lid. On this application of filler, worker just applied it locally to the area that needed it. Using the trusty piece of spring steel worker evened out the filler to match roughly with the panel's surface. Here you can see how worker applied the filler in a different direction from the first two applications to help even out the specific area, and so he didn't have to go back and sand it again.
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17. Another guidecoat went over the fresh, again to track the sanding work and know where any high or low spots might be.
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18. When sanding filler, always keep an eye on how dull your sandpaper is getting. When the paper gets dull, it won't sand any longer and you'll be working for nothing. If you're in doubt, throw a fresh piece of paper on the sanding board.
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19. With everything level and sanded, here's how the finished area looked. No more dark leopard spots. If you see some areas where sanding has gone down to bare metal, that's okay. It'll all be covered up when the high-build filler primer is sprayed on the panel. The high-build filler primer will also handle filling in any of the fine scratches left by the sanding process.
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20. To get an idea how much filler was used to even out this area of the deck lid, Worker got out a pair of calipers and some paper to illustrate the air gap between the spring steel and repair area of the panel before being filled. After the three applications of filler, Worker figures there is the equivalent of about six layers of paper on the panel, about 0.029 inch thick total. That's just right when it comes to the amount of filler you should use and how the metalwork should be finished.
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